The next day began as the previous one had ended – along Lak
e Wanaka, sitting at a (different) cafe, enjoying a repast (breakfast) and working on the next installment to this blog series. It was a beautiful morning. Before proceeding on our journey however, we took a short stroll into town for postcards.
One of the few shops that opens that early in the morning was a bookshop/stationary store. While in the bookshop, I spotted a book written by a New Zealand designer and shop owner, Annah Streton. I couldn’t resist making the purchase, curious to read about the experiences of a successful female entreprenure and New Zealand fashion designer. Among her many business endeavours is a magazine called “Her” aimed at inspiring and guiding entreprenuial women. Apparently there few women leading businesses in New Zealand. The other thing that peaked my interest was one that hadn’t crossed my mine until this trip. That is of New Zealand having a Fashion Industry — it does! (More on Annah in a later blog.)
Leaving Wanaka our goal was to get as far as Franz Joseph, a town and glacier by the same name. Before this trip, I thought of glaciers as simply an ”iceberg”, though that is far from the truth. Before we got there however, we had to drive up and over the only pass this end of the south island to New Zealand’s west coast. It’s really just up the coast from Milford Sound, but getting there is about a 7 to 8 hour drive.
Across the pass and down the west coast of New Zealand is a temperate rain forest. And, rain is the operative word. Not long after we crossed the southern alps, as they call it here, it started raining — about halfway before reaching our goal.
Before making it to our first destination for the day, Fox Glacier, we stopped at a little red carnival type trailer out in the middle of no where (seriously no where) serving sandwiches, hot cocoa and coffee. “Good on them” for setting that trailer up since all we saw for miles and miles were ferns, forest and fields with some views of the ocean on our left side. Next to the trailer was a low stone wall covered with white quartz stones that had been found on the same beach. People had one-by-one written messages on the stones and placed them on the wall, we did the same and added another to the collection.
After our caffeine break we made it to Fox Glacier. What a sight! This glacier is a river of ice sliding down from the tops of the nearby mountains. As we approached the mouth of the glacier we could see a cave where a torrent of water was streaming from its mouth. Men using heavy equipment were working near the head of the glacier to keep the river channel flowing so as to not wash out the walking track, parking lot and everything else they have created here. Walking up as far as the track would allow us, we passed a number of waterfalls and had to cross a number of streams caused by the rain that was falling harder and harder. By the time we made it back to the car, we were as soaked as the ground around us, even though we had umbrellas and rain gear. Dinner that evening was at the foot of the mountain in a quaint restaurant sitting near a gas fireplace listening to the heavy patter of rain on the roof. We were so happy for the warmth! Back at the motel, clothes were hung everywhere in hopes that they would dry out before being packed up for the next morning.
We woke the next day to puffy white clouds, brilliant blue sky and a view of the Franz Josef glacier from the front of our motel. The night before there was too much rain and fog to see much of our surroundings. A short drive thru the town of Franz Josef and we were entering the parking lot for this glacier. It was a solid 45 minute walk up the river bed to the end of the path to view this glacier’s head. This time I was close enough to the mouth of the glacier to see the cave underneath and water flowing out.
It is awesome to see these huge rivers of ice slowly making their way between mountains. It is said that they can extend or retreat over 1 meter per day. It takes about 5 years for the snow from the peaks to move down the sides of the mountain and make its way to the ocean as ice melt. As glaciers go, that is a fast moving glacier. Also, seeing the blue ice of the glaciers, we understood where all the blue water in some of the lakes comes from. And, unless you are booking a helicopter ride or hiring a guide for a walk on the glacier, there isn’t much else to do. So, on to Hokitika, our final stop before returning to Christchurch.
To our dismay we did not find Hokitika to be warm and fuzzy. A quick tour of the town didn’t have much to encourage us to stay, so we drove up the road a bit to Greymouth to enjoy dinner that evening at another Speights. If you didn’t recognize the name, Greymouth was the area where the disasterous mining accident happened not too long ago. Above Greymouth we stopped to see another interesting rock formation called “The Pancake Rocks”.
Our final day in New Zealand was Saturday – Watangi Day. Watangi Day is the day the Maori signed a treaty with the British allowing them to become British subjects and letting them stay where they were but mostly ceeding New Zealand to the British empire.
We had a beautiful drive from the west coast through Arthur’s Pass taking us back to Christchurch. It is just amazing how different the two sides of these “Southern Alps” are. On the one side, a complete rain forest — green and lush with tall palms, trees and other vegetation. Just across the pass, it is brown and dry with grass with few if any trees. Along the peaks of the mountains, one could see the snow that would eventually make its way to the coast as a glacier.
At one stretch break we had an opportunity to take pictures of some wildflowers, a small butterfly and of course the landscape. There is something very soothing and comforting about these mountains.
It wasn’t long before we found ourselves back in Christchurch. After checking into our hotel we found a small library and finally had success posting one of the blogs we had written. Internet service in New Zealand was sketchy, expensive and notoriously inconsistent.
In addition to looking for a spot with wifi, I was in pursuit of a magazine article that I spotted at the beginning of this trip. I had not had a chance to finish reading it and so I was curious to find it again and finish. Joseph knew where a library was in downtown Christchurch so we stopped in. Simple I thought. Just find the magazine, find the article and make a copy of it to read on the plane back to Melbourne. Wrong. After searching for the magazine, I found it but with only 5 minutes till the library closed. Did I have enough time to find the article, copy it and get out so the library staff could go home? Of course just when you are looking for something, that is the time you can’t find it. (To read the conclusion of this story you will find it on Just Make It Sew’s facebook page.)
What Joseph did find for me, while I was looking for the magazine, was more evidence of a fashion industry in New Zealand. They have their own version of the WWD called “New Zealand Apparel — The Business of Fashion”, a monthly publication. I wished I had time to review the library’s issues, but time had run out so I will just have to satisfly my curiousity by looking it up on the web.
Our final evening meal was of Indian food in a restaurtant named “Little India”. While Joseph chatted it up with the waiter, we discovered they have a restaurtant in Melbourne not far from the church we attend. We had one last event to follow up on our trip. Back on our first day in Christchurch I had noticed a poster advertising a classical concert to be held in a park. It was the ASB Classical Sparks concert commemorating Watangi Day and ending with fireworks. What a nice way to end a great trip!